From Miami Beach the sun sets across the bay behind the
Miami skyline – sometimes it’s between buildings, sometimes behind a
building. It is always a show. (Find the airplane in the picture.)
Crossing the Great Bahama Bank between Bimini and New Providence,
the sun went down and this light fog rose from the perfectly still water. The sky and sea merged, and everything turned
pink and light blue.
The chart names this little island near Norman’s Cay “One
Tree Cay”. It is.
I’m on the beach waving at you from below Camp Driftwood on
Shroud Cay.
We bushwhacked across a stony hill to a seldom visited beach near the
northern end of Shroud Cay. Bill crawled
back into this cave. He said it was
shady and cool inside. I bet it had
snakes.
This 8 foot tall contraption had washed up on the
shore. It was aluminum, all welded
together, with the yellow hollow plastic things along the bottom. It was firmly fixed in the sand. Any idea what it is?
The interior of Shroud Cay is a morass of mangrove creeks
and sand flats. I think the African
Queen is just around the corner. We will
wait here for the gin bottles to float by.
Greetings from Big Major’s Spot, Exuma, Bahamas. I have not been a very good blogger. Bill asked me tonight if I had given up on
writing. We have not had good internet
since we arrived in the Bahamas. My old
cell phone has a BTC SIM card that can access the internet if we have a cell
phone signal. Bill and I have been in
the mostly uninhabited part of the Exumas. There are two cell towers in the area. One at Highbourne Cay and another about 50
miles south in Staniel Cay. The part of
the Exumas between the two towers is really pretty, but, it’s sort of remote. We like it there! Big Major’s Spot, where we are now, is just
over the hill from Staniel Cay with a 300 foot high antenna, so we now have
internet.
When I last wrote we were waiting on a higher tide to go
through Hell Gate in Georgia. We made it
through all the shallow parts in Georgia: Hell Gate, the Florida Passage,
Creighton Narrows, the Little Mud River, and Jekyll Creek without a problem. However, when we were motoring cross the Sapelo
Sound we found a spot of 4’-6” water in a place where the chart said 16’. Irish Eyes went hard aground on a falling tide. We needed 5’ to float. It took us about 20 minutes to get off and into
deeper water. We raised our sails and
ran the engine while I hung over the edge of the boat to get it to heel over to
get the keel off the bottom. I was not
excited about hanging over the edge of the boat. I was sure the water was very cold. Thankfully, I did not fall overboard.
It was cold in Georgia and north Florida. We spent two nights in St Augustine and wore
our jackets anytime we were outside.
When we got to Vero Beach it was finally warmer. It was nice not to have on long
underwear and down filled coats. Finally,
on February 13 we arrived in South Beach, Miami Beach.
Our usual anchorage near Belle Isle was unusually crowded. Bill spent a good bit of our first night sitting
in the cockpit watching the closely packed anchored boats dance about in the
wind and tide. He wanted to be sure we
were not in danger of hitting any other boat.
As soon as the sun came up, we moved to a more isolated spot near the
Julia Tuttle Causeway. The view of the huge
houses and large motor boats along the shore of the Venetian Islands was impressive.
Our new anchorage gave us an opportunity
to explore a different, more northern, part of Miami Beach.
It was cold in Miami. One morning it was 43 degrees! The local fashionistas were wearing boots,
scarves, and hats. I was sporting a
sweatshirt. We took in the Miami Boat Show
on Sunday February 15. Anything and everything a person could possibly want, and
not necessarily need, for a boat was on display. For us it was a cheap day; we only bought two
beers.
Bill made two bus trips into Miami to buy boat parts while I
stayed on board Irish Eyes. I was knitting
a blanket for our granddaughter Olivia. I finished the blanket, and we sent it along
with our winter clothes to Julia in South Carolina. Goody bye down; good bye long underwear; good
bye socks; good bye electric heaters...
South Beach was the perfect place to people-watch. We did our laundry, bought groceries, shopped
a bit, ate in restaurants, and drank in bars all while watching the oddest of people
walk by. It was fun.
The weather forecast for Monday, February 23, was perfect
for crossing the Gulf Stream to Bimini. We
made our final trip to the grocery store. Bill got fuel and water. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon when we
pulled up our anchor and headed south to No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne. The Sunday boat traffic on Biscayne Bay was
heavy. Boats were everywhere. It was a zoo.
A jet ski even roared by purposely splashing water into our
cockpit. By sundown all the crazies went
home, and we were quietly anchored outside No Name Harbor. We had an early supper and went to bed ready
to go out the Florida Channel in the morning.
Bill’s wristwatch alarm woke us up at 3:00am, and we were
underway by 4. I am not a big fan of
going through a narrow shallow channel in the dark on a falling tide with no
moon, but we made it just fine. Our
crossing was uneventful and smooth. We
saw lots and lots of Portuguese Man of War jellyfish. They looked like light blue, clear balloons
floating on the surface of the ocean. The
weather forecast for the next two days was favorable for heading east then south from
Bimini towards the Exumas; after that – not so good – the wind speed would
increase and blow directly at us. If we
spent the night in Bimini, we would be stuck there for at least a week. We decided to clear in with the Bahamian
government in Bimini, buy a case of rum, and leave immediately.
We arrived in Bimini at 2:30pm, docked at Weech’s Bimini
Dock, and chatted with Kimini (the dock master). Bill went to visit customs and immigrations. We ran across the street and bought a case of
rum. With everything done, we were underway
again by 4. Sailing across the Great
Bahama Bank, the sun set with a beautiful green flash, probably the best one we
have ever seen.
The wind died completely as the sun set, and it was perfectly
calm. The low level fog (or dew clouds)
were rather disconcerting; everything was hazy - gray, pink, or baby blue. I saw phantom boat lights two or three times
when something moved in the water, causing the water to phosphoresce, and
lighting the fog from below. Since it
was completely calm, we decided to anchor just before midnight to get some sleep.
We just pulled a mile off to the side of
the course line on the chart and anchored.
More phantom boats appeared and disappeared around us. It was eerie.
At sunrise, we continued on sailing, then motoring, for all the
next day and night, arriving at Norman’s Cay before noon on February 25. As predicted the wind picked up from the south. We were really glad we had not spent the
night in Bimini. Other boats that
crossed over from Miami with us got stuck in Bimini for almost ten days.
We spent two nights at Norman’s Cay, then moved south to
Shroud Cay. The creeks at Shroud lead
over to beaches on the Exumas Sound side of the island. In our dinghy we toured the creeks enjoying
the beautiful scenery. The outboard
motor on the dinghy was not running very well.
Bill had worked on the motor and thought it would be ok. Well, the motor didn’t run well, and we
managed to damage the propeller by running aground. Bill rowed us about a mile and a half back
home to Irish Eyes. It was a looong
trip. The biggest risk was that when we
came out of the creek and into the open water, the wind and current would sweep
us past Irish Eyes, and we would next be in Cuba. I guess all is well that ends well. I caught Irish Eyes as we swept by, and of
course, Captain Bill had stored away a spare propeller for the outboard. Not a perfect replacement, but one that fit
and worked.
A week at Shroud Cay was long enough. It was time to move. We made the huge leap, all of 10 miles, down to
the south anchorage at Hawksbill Cay. There
we stayed a couple of days swimming, walking the trails, and just soaking up
the warm temperature.
Our next stop was Emerald Rock at the Exuma Cay Land and Sea
Park headquarters on Warderick Wells. Each
year we engrave another year on our sign that stays atop Boo Boo Hill. We climbed the hill to the large pile of signs
from boats and found ours deep in the pile.
The sign had suffered some damage losing the corner that had 2014 carved
into it. Bill did some repairs and
carved both 2014 and 2015 on the sign. When we took it back to the hill, Bill found
the missing bits. With our sign resting on
Boo Boo Hill, we are assured of good luck in our travels.
On March 11 Bill decided to go hiking on the rocky trails in
the park. I decided not to go along.
Bill has boots, I have flip-flops. After
he got back we discovered that the flushing handle on the toilet would not
pump. That is a really bad thing. I have found a toilet much preferable to a
bucket. My handy captain spent the rest
of the afternoon rebuilding the bronze and china beast. Finally, the pieces were back together, and the
toilet was working again. Whew!
We left Emerald Rock after our fourth night there. The wind was forecast to blow really hard from
the east southeast for several days beginning in the afternoon, and that was where
we wanted to go. We had a quick, but
wet, morning sail to Big Major’s Spot where we are now. The wind did blow, but everything was just
fine in this sheltered spot.
The water is beautiful, the temperature goes from about 75
at night to 81 in the daytime, Bill is doing little boat projects, and I am
knitting and reading.
Our friends, James and Sandra Little, will be here next week. They are bringing us a proper replacement
outboard propeller along with several other things we forgot. It will be like Christmas.
Hope Spring comes to you soon.
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