James and Sandra Little came to visit us in the Bahamas this
year. You can tell they are sailors; they
haven’t much luggage. You can tell they
are friends; half of what they are carrying is things we asked them to bring
(like a new outboard propeller).
Grilled lobster tail for dinner... freshly caught with melted butter waiting. My
napkin is already in my lap.
Here is a short movie of the blow hole on the beach at Black
Point. The water shoots 20 or more feet
into the air. The sad part is that the
plastic trash in the ocean also shoots up into the air and lands on the rough rock
where it is trapped. You can see it scattered around the blow hole.
Sandra may look a bit tentative petting this pig, but they
eventually became best buddies. It is
just what you always wanted to do on your vacation; fly 1500 miles to pet a
pig. From what we saw that day, there
will shortly be even more pigs.
Bill found this Chinese fishing float on the rocky shore of Big
Galliot Cay. It was too big to fit in
any of the boat’s lockers, so he let it go.
We watched it drift away from the boat toward the horizon.
This is the inside of a cave on Big Farmers Cay. I would not go in, so Bill took this picture.
The yacht ‘Serque’ dragged its anchor and wound up on the
same beach were we fed the pigs just a few days before. I’d bet the owner had a frank discussion with
the captain.
This a the view from a hilltop on Stocking Island looking
over the anchored boats at Sand Dollar Beach in George Town. We are out there.
Irish Eyes at anchor with a riding sail up, an anchor ball
displayed, and both a Bahamian courtesy flag and American flag flying.
Hello from sunny and warm Sand Dollar Beach, George Town,
Exuma, the Bahamas.
Bill and I have travelled a few miles and seen a lot since I
last wrote. On the morning of St.
Patrick’s Day, we set sail for Black Point. The wind was light, but we made the five mile
journey by lunch time. As we were
lifting the dinghy’s outboard off the stern of ‘Irish Eyes’ and onto our dinghy,
the pin holding together the block supporting the motor fell out into the sea. The rope tangled and the outboard did not go
swimming. Bill quickly put out a
sounding weight to mark the spot so he could dive down and retrieve the
pin. Our friends Bill and Phyllis from
motor vessel ‘Oh! My’ came over for a beer, and the retrieval dive had to
wait. We had not seen Bill and Phyllis
since last year. The afternoon was spent
catching up. The four of us decided to
go to the St Patrick’s Day Happy Hour at Scorpio’s Restaurant. Before going ashore Bill dove into the water to
see if he could find the lost stainless steel pin. He got it on the first try! Amazing.
The thing was tiny, the size of a small broken piece of spaghetti, and
was laying on the sand bottom among the grass and creature holes. At Scorpio’s with Bill and Phyllis, Captain
Bill had corned beef and cabbage, and I had conch. We had green rum punches. Lot of other boaters were there, and everyone
had a good time.
The laundromat in Black Point has the best view of any
laundromat in the Exumas if not the world. I decided it was time to have clean clothes
and sheets. Back on ‘Irish Eyes’, Bill
changed the engine oil and caught up on his boat chores. At bedtime we discovered the holding tank for
the toilet had leaked a bit under my bunk cushion (and our clean sheets). It took more than several paper towels to
clean up the stinking mess. The next
morning was spent finding and fixing the leak. The glue holding the level sensor in the tank had
failed. Fortunately, it was not a large
leak, and we fixed it by smearing more glue over the spot. It is always something on a boat! Scorpio’s was again having Happy Hour that
evening. We needed a Happy Hour. The holding tank leak was something we needed
to forget.
Friday, we walked out to the blow hole and beaches on Black
Point’s ocean-side shore. We had been
there before, but we had never seen the blow hole blowing. This time we caught the tide and wind just
right. The blow was great, looking like
something from Yellowstone. The beaches
produced a few good shells and a sea heart sea bean, making the trip quite
worthwhile.
Sandra and James Little were due fly into Staniel Cay on
Sunday, so back to Staniel Cay we went anchoring nearby in Big Majors Spot.
Early next morning we moved the boat from Big Majors Spot to
a spot just off the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. The tide was high, and we were the only boat
there. Bill and I chose our place,
dropped our anchor, and were all set. For some reason a forty five foot motor boat, ‘Docs
Aweigh’, decided our chosen place was a really a good one and anchored beside
us only thirty seven yards away. While that
was a little too close for our liking, the wind was calm, so we were not overly
worried. Bill talked to the captain on 'Docs Aweigh', who apologized for anchoring too close and said he was just
waiting to pick up crew. We went about
our chores without any real worries.
Sunday afternoon Bill and I went to the airport terminal, a
gazebo, and met the Littles. On the way
back to Irish Eyes we stopped in the Staniel Cay Yacht Club for a beer and conch
fritters. As we left I bought two lobster
tails from a fisherman for supper. When
we got to ‘Irish Eyes’, ‘Docs Aweigh’ was still anchored near us. It was still calm, so no problem. We grilled our lobsters, ate, and all went to
bed.
In the dark of early morning, Captain Bill woke up with a
strange feeling of unease. The wind had
picked up and the current was flowing in the opposite direction to the wind. On deck, in a more than excited voice, Bill
called to me to come help him. ‘Irish
Eyes’ and ‘Docs Aweigh’ were swinging together, and a collision was imminent. Although Bill tried to cushion the blow, the
noise of our spare anchor striking the other boat was more than alarming. That brought everyone else up on deck. The two boats only hit that once, but they swung
threateningly close several times, and with all four of us now on deck and working
we were able to push them apart. Fortunately,
no more damage was done, and no one was hurt.
As soon as it was light, we pulled up our anchor and moved back to Big
Majors Spot. What an exciting welcome to
the Bahamas for our guests!
While the Littles were with us, we fed the swimming pigs at
Big Majors Spot, walked several beaches on different cays, swam a bit, found
shells, took a long dinghy tour, re-visited Black Point, and (of course) talked
a lot. A cold front was to pass through
the area on Friday night or early on Saturday.
The wind was going to clock all the way around from the southeast
through the south and west before settling in the north. The Littles were to leave on Sunday morning,
so we needed to be near the Staniel Cay airport. Bill and I decided the most protected spot
near Staniel Cay was in the channel between Big Majors Spot Cay and
Little Majors Spot Cay. We left Black Point
with a south wind and had a lovely downwind sail to our well protected
anchorage.
The forecasted cold front came through at 3am. The first gust of wind was a solid forty knots.
(I will never understand why this sort
of thing always happens in the dark middle of the night.) There was lightning, rain, and a constant
thirty knot wind. The only thing missing
was thunder. We watched the boats around
us in the lightning flashes and turned on our VHF radio in case a nearby boat
were to hail us, but nothing much happened where we were anchored.
On the other hand, over at Big Majors Spot things got
interesting. The boats there were completely
exposed to the waves that the west wind had kicked up. During the storm we could hear over our VHF
radio the boats anchored at Big Majors Spot talking. There were calls for some boats to take in
anchor chain and others let out more anchor chain all to avoid boats dragging
or striking one another. Everyone there was
asked to turn on their deck lights so their boats could be seen. The 133 foot mega yacht, ‘Serque’, dragged its
anchor and ran aground on Pig Beach. Mercifully,
it did not hit any of the other anchored boats.
In the morning after things had calmed down, the four of us
got into the dinghy and went over to see what was up. It was low tide and ‘Serque’ was resting on
the beach with the pigs walking around the scene. We wondered if the pigs got better food from
the mega yacht than the eggplant skins they had gotten from us five days
earlier.
After surveying the disaster from our dinghy we checked out
several nearby pocket beaches before returning to Irish Eyes for lunch and a
beer. Later that day at high tide, we
took the dinghy over to watch the salvage crew pull ‘Serque’ off the
beach. Overseas Salvage was doing the
work. They put floatation bags under the
yacht and with three tugs pulling and a great deal of effort, they got Serque
off the beach and safely anchored again. The word we got was that the yacht’s propellers
were damaged, but new ones would be on the way from Ft Lauderdale along with an
engineer to fix everything. It costs
from $99,000 a week to charter ‘Serque’. I guess they’ll have to work a couple of extra
weeks this year to cover their unplanned expenses.
Sunday morning it was a cloudy, windy, and cool seventy
degrees. At 7am Bill, James. and Sandra
left in the dinghy for the mile and a half trip to the Staniel Cay airport. I did not go thinking that with fewer people
in the dinghy everyone would have a drier ride.
The Littles flew out for home, and Bill came back to Irish Eyes only
slightly wet.
It was time for us to head farther south. Bill and I decided to work our way slowly to
George Town. We stopped again in Black
Point, our third time there this year. On
the previous two times we had watched a police boat take things off a rather
sad looking sailboat in the harbor. Finally, the police towed the boat out of the
harbor and into a nearby creek. After
asking several of the locals, we found out that the owner of the boat had been
arrested, we think on drug and weapons charges, and that the boat had been
confiscated by the police. We were told the
owner had five illegal weapons on board and was planning a mass murder/suicide.
There are crazy people even here in
paradise.
We left Black Point and anchored near Galliot Cut to be
ready to leave for Georgetown first thing in the morning. While at anchor, Bill gave me a haircut. I am still surprised I let him. Actually, I begged him to cut my hair. It was a mess, but it is now (somewhat)
better.
It was a pleasant 36 mile sail down to George Town. Bill made a fishing lure out of an empty
toothpaste tube by cutting off the seal at the bottom and slitting the walls
into long narrow ribbons. The leader
went in through the open hole at the top and a big hook rested amongst the
ribbons inside the tube. It looked
impressive in shiny red and silver. We
had one fish bite the lure, but the fish got off. Oh well… I didn’t want it anyway. We arrived here in George Town at our favorite
anchorage off Sand Dollar Beach in the late afternoon. The trip was uneventful; nice wind and calm
seas.
We have walked a few of the trails on Stocking Islands,
looked for sand dollars, and generally enjoyed the scenery. Saturday we joined a dinghy drift, a floating cocktail
party in dinghies all tied together drifting along with the wind and current. It was fun. The sun set and the dinghies drifted almost
all the way across the harbor to Georgetown proper before the party literally
broke up and everyone returned to their boats.
I have been knitting furiously. Bill has joined the Waterway Radio & Cruising
Club and talks to other amateur radio operators on the HF radio. He has busied himself working on our boat and
has helped a couple of other boats with their problems. Both of us have read a pile of books, but so
far we have only looked at one of our DVD movies. It seems odd to be so busy when we are busy
doing nothing.
Remember Jimmy Buffet’s line, “We are the people our parents
warned us about.”? Yup, that’s us.
Jimmy Buffet sings.... (Bill remembers the Gardner McKay and the 'Tiki' from "Adventures in Paradise".)
Hope you all had a Happy Easter.
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