Our old patched fuel tank is on the left, and the new on the
right. The new boards in the dock replaced
a section crushed by a sailboat during hurricane Florence. Our little Honda generator in the distance
gives us electricity because the real electricity has not yet been repaired.
Irish Eyes is hanging in the Travelift slings at Sailcraft
Services. We had her hauled out to
inspect and clean the bottom before setting off for Florida.
The Waccamaw River north of Georgetown, SC is a pretty place
with cypress and gum trees growing out of the still brown water.
In Beaufort, SC we had to wait almost three hours for the
Lady’s Island Swing Bridge to open for us.
They give priority to the cars.
It was almost dark before they finally opened to let us through.
We spent one night in the Marineland Marina in Florida. The change in the trees from South Carolina’s
Waccamaw River to here is striking.
These are two pictures of the temporary bridge on the Southern
Boulevard in Palm Beach. It is near
Trump’s Mar-a-Lago. In the first picture
the bridge is closed and in the second it is open. It is quite a contraption. It clangs, bangs, and creaks as it opens and
closes.
We bought bananas in Vero Beach, and Bill fixed us banana
tarts, juice, and tea for breakfast.
Hello from Miami Beach.
We enjoyed both our Christmas together and our children and
grandchildren’s New Year’s visit. After
they left, it was time to think about leaving home for the trip south. We had already had snow… nine inches of the four-letter
word… that was enough of that! After
packing our car with everything Bill thought we might need plus my clothes, we
left for New Bern, NC on January 11.
The first thing we did when we arrived in New Bern, was to
get the Honda generator out of the car and started. Florence had left our dock without
electricity or water. The generator gave
us electricity for heat, and a motley collection of collapsible water jugs, a
dock cart, and a trip to the marina’s wrecked laundry gave us water. Thankfully, the sailboats that were resting
on top of the dock after Florence had been removed, and our dock was repaired
and once again walkable. The marina
staff, faced with a herculean task, had been working hard to get everything
back in pre-storm condition. Hopefully,
they will be finished when we get back.
Some of you may remember that our boat’s aluminum fuel tank
developed a leak last year, and that two good palm tree mechanics (Bill and I)
had repaired the tank in the Bahamas with epoxy resin. Not completely trusting our repair, Bill
ordered a new tank. Although delivered
late, it was waiting for us when we arrived in New Bern. It was perfect. We installed it, took the old one to the
recycling center, and cleaned up the resulting chaos in the boat.
It was cold in New Bern.
One morning our thermometer showed 34 degrees inside the boat. We had lots of blankets and a 12V ElectroWarm
bunk heater, so our nights were warm even without the generator running. On the coldest morning, Bill, the tough one,
went outside, started the generator, and went to take a shower. I got out from under all our blankets, started
the electric heater, and went back under the covers. The boat warmed up quickly, and I could at
last venture out of my warm bed.
Bill worked on boat projects while I shopped for all the things
we either forgot to bring or needed to buy.
Some things I bought from the stores in town, and the others Amazon
delivered to the marina.
With 80% of our To-Do List accomplished, we said, “Enough”,
and took Irish Eyes to Sailcraft Services in Oriental, NC for a quick haul out,
underwater inspection, and bottom cleaning.
We also had them re-machine the drive pulley for the refrigeration
system and install the last three folding steps on the mast. Those three steps alone would have taken Bill
and me a whole day to do, but they knocked out the job in under an hour. In less than 24 hours and with only little
damage to a Visa card, we were away and headed south.
The weather forecast was for a gale to pass over the NC
coast. We elected to go a very short
distance and anchored in Adams Creek near the west shore to wait out the southwesterly
blow. And, blow it did. We had a rocky night, but by late in the afternoon
on January 25 things were back to normal.
The next morning was our coldest morning. The condensation inside the boat was frozen,
and the deck outside was slippery with a heavy frost. With lots of layers; two pairs of long
underwear, two pair of pants, probably four shirts, a down coat, a balaclava, a
woolly cap, gloves, chemical hand warmers, and (for me) wonderful fuzzy lined
UGG boots, both of us were warm even
outside in the open cockpit. Inside the
boat our “bus heater” kept the interior toasty using the engine’s heat. That was great because when we stopped to
anchor, the boat’s interior was always cozy and dry. While the boat cooled during the night, we always
ate our breakfast quickly in the morning and got underway again. If Bill had his way, we would travel from 6
in the morning to 7:30 at night. I instead
set the schedule at absolutely, positively no more than 7:30 to 5:30, and frequently
I allowed less.
We stopped for one night at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club to visit
my sister and brother-in-law and to have dinner at their house. He is French and a chef, and thus a French
Chef, and she has been his understudy for years. It is always the best meal of the trip. Besides that, we got a real shower at the
yacht club. Real showers are few and far
between on these trips.
Three days later, after crossing the Charleston Harbor, we
arrived at the Wappoo Creek Bridge. It had
a new opening schedule, and we had a forty-five minute wait. The US Coast Guard seized the opportunity to
board us for a safety inspection. Both
the young officers were friendly and polite.
They did not find anything amiss on Irish Eyes, but before the bridge eventually
opened, they returned to retrieve a pair of obviously expensive sunglasses one of
them had left behind.
Our next bridge experience occurred at the Lady’s Island
Bridge in Beaufort, SC. That bridge also
has a new opening schedule. It does not
open from 3pm till 6pm. Unfortunately,
we arrived at 3:15. We anchored the boat
for the long wait. At 6 as the sun set
and the nearby Beaufort City Marina closed, the bridge finally opened. We went through and anchored in the shallows
beyond the city marina’s mooring field.
It was pitch dark. Beaufort, SC
did not seem as boater friendly as it had been in the past.
The farther south we got the warmer the temperatures became. We made it through all the Georgia shallow
spots including Hell Gate and the Creighton Narrows without a problem. Bill, once again the tough one, steered us through
the notoriously shallow Little Mud River and across the Altamaha Sound in the
pouring rain while I stayed dry below and encouraged him. We anchored near Lanier Island, Georgia for a
couple of hours while the tide rose before heading off for Jekyll Creek,
probably the shallowest of the Georgia spots, at high tide. We made it through Jekyll Creek and anchored in
dark. Bill put up our TV antenna, and we
watched the Super Bowl. I am not sure
why he did it; neither one of us is a football fan, and the game was a near
scoreless bore.
On Friday, February 8, we arrived in Vero Beach,
Florida. Bill had ordered boat parts and
other things from Amazon, Defender, and McMaster-Carr, so we should have had had
packages waiting. Wrong. He mis-addressed some of things and never actually
hit the send key on others. Some went to
Kingsport, and others were never sent. We
ended up getting only a spare bilge pump, a winch handle, and new flags. To avoid the South Florida weekend small boat
traffic, we decided to stay until Monday.
We used the down time to take showers with unlimited hot water, go grocery
shopping, do our laundry, and enjoy a couple of restaurant meals. Sunday afternoon we went to the nearby Vero
Beach Art Museum. Displayed among the
paintings and other art objects was a beautiful hand embroidered bed
covering. Bill said I should make one
too. I do not think I have enough years
left to take on that project. I’ll just
knit.
After Vero Beach it was one day to Hobe Sound where we
anchored behind Jupiter Island, its golf courses, and Tiger Wood’s house. When
we shut the engine down, Bill found one of our three house batteries hot,
hissing, and smelly. He pronounced it
dead and disconnected it from the other two.
The next day we took the boat into the north end of Lake Worth to go to
the nearby Palm Beach West Marine store and get a replacement. That did not work out. The wind and waves in the anchorage were too much
for us, so we turned around and left. A
new battery was put off to Miami.
From Palm Beach south there were the drawbridges, lots of
drawbridges, most with twice an hour opening schedules. It was a frustrating game of rushing south,
waiting for an opening, and rushing on again. We were surrounded not by the quiet marsh land
and wildlife of the waterway to the north, but by zillion dollar houses and
concrete and steel sea walls that reflected then re-reflected the wakes of the
large boats zooming by. Yuck. But, it was only three days and none were
long. We got to Miami Beach yesterday
and anchored with another anchored sailboat and a large yacht among some nice
houses, palm trees, a park, and highway.
It’s time to have some fun and get ready to go to the
Bahamas.
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