The Roosevelt theater is closed and abandoned, but the wall
has the happiest “Welcome to Miami Beach” mural. We were happy to be there, too.
The red line is our course from the
south end of Key Biscayne, across the Gulf Stream, around the north end of
Bimini, and across the shallow banks to Morgan’s Bluff. The green line shows our plan to sail to New
Providence’s West Bay, anchor there for the night, then sail to Highborne Cay
the next morning. The plan did not
happen.
The big piece of metal is the coupling flange that fell off
our transmission’s output shaft. It is
about 4 inches across. The little thing
is the nut that should have held it on the shaft. It unscrewed.
Our chart plotter draws what it calls a “breadcrumb” that
shows where we have gone. Here we are
leaving Morgan’s Bluff under sail on the zigzag course tacking back and forth
as we sail into the wind. Then, the
straight part is where the transmission temporarily re-learned how to do forward letting us motor the rest of the way to New Providence Island. The crossed lines of the cursor show where we
anchored for the night. The numbers are
the water depth in meters. 2000 meters is about a mile and a quarter.
This picture from our chart plotter shows our route the
next day as we sailed to Palm Cay Marina.
If we were to zoom in on the chart plotter, you would see many, many
more little crosses indicating coral heads and rocks.
Sailing into Palm Cay Marina with an engine that would only
do neutral and reverse, the lady on the radio said, “Go to pier 3, slip 15.” One red arrow shows the route; the other shows
our boat in its slip. It is not
something you would want to do.
Safely in our slip, and after a couple of drinks, we could appreciate
our surroundings. The marina is
great. The grounds crew works constantly
keeping it that way.
Hello from Palm Cay Marina on New Providence Island in the
Bahamas.
Yes, we are in the Bahamas in a marina. It’s not our usual thing, but here we are. The transmission on our engine failed, so here
we wait for it to be repaired.
Bill and I spent two weeks in Miami Beach shopping, eating
out, getting our second shingles shot, and just walking around in both Miami
Beach and in midtown Miami. Bill’s
longest expedition was a solo Uber trip to the Sam’s Club in Doral to get a battery
to replace the boat battery that failed on the trip down. Our longest expedition together was a bus and
train trip to Coconut Grove to visit the West Marine store where Bill wondered
around for an hour looking at boat stuff.
We then walked to Home Depot where he bought some stainless steel
thingies. Hot from the walking in the
sun, we had a nice lunch at Berries Restaurant… not outside on the porch with
the tourists, but inside with the much-appreciated air-conditioned coolness. Before returning to our boat, we checked out
the Dinner Key Mooring Field, but decided that our spot anchored off Miami
Beach was both better, and free.
It takes us two and a half to three days to travel from
Miami to the Exumas. A suitable window was
to open on February 28. It was boat
stocking time. Bill filled the boat’s fuel
tank to the brim, tied three 5 gal jugs of diesel and a jug of gasoline on the
deck, topped off the water tanks, and went to buy tonic water and beer. He dropped me off at the police dock to walk
to Publix to buy food. When he came back
to pick me up and was stacking my bags on our hand cart, he grabbed his back
pocket and said, “Darn (not really), I’ve lost my wallet.” He had.
Gone were his credit cards, driver’s license, medical cards, some cash,
his bus pass, and other things. Oh
well. Just cancel the credit cards and
go to the Bahamas.
We motored south through our last draw bridge on the Intracoastal
Waterway, past Miami, and onward to the south end of Key Biscayne to anchor
outside No Name Harbor for a peaceful evening before our coming early morning
departure.
We were up at 3, the anchor was up at 4, and we were
underway in the dark heading for Morgan’s Bluff on Andros Island. The trip to Morgan’s Bluff was expected to
take about thirty hours. It was a little
rolly in the Gulf Stream with a light NE breeze. By the time we were in sight of Bimini, the
sea calmed down, the wind picked up, and we turned the engine off and sailed across the Great Bahama Bank. I think this was our fastest trip across the
Gulf Stream.
During the night, the wind went ahead of us and pretty much
died. Bill started the engine about
2am. We saw the lights of boats both coming
our way and going the other way. While
Bill was on watch, he had a bit of a bother with a ship that did not seem to
see our lights. Bill shone a flashlight
on our sails. The ship lit us up with
its searchlight and turned slightly to the right to avoid us.
We arrived at Morgan’s Bluff around 9:00 am. There was just one other sailboat anchored in
the harbor. There was a cargo ship tied
up to the dock and unloading, so the customs and immigration people were
already in Morgan’s Bluff. We launched
the dinghy, and Bill went ashore to clear us into the Bahamas. It did not take him long. We paid for our cruising permit and were given
permission to stay in the Bahamas until June 30.
We put the dinghy and its motor back on the deck, raised the
anchor, and departed on what we expected to be a 30 mile sail to New Providence
Island where we would anchor for the night.
We motored out of the harbor and raised the sails. I noticed that the engine did not seem to be
pushing us. A quick check showed that we
could not motor either forward or backward.
This time both of us said, “Darn" (again, not really). We sailed back into the harbor and anchored
under sail. It was tense. There was a lot to do in a short time, and
only one chance to get it right, and we did.
In the engine compartment, Bill discovered that the forward
flange of the coupling between the transmission and the propeller shaft had slipped
off the transmission’s output shaft. The
engine and the propeller were no longer hooked together. Checking his books, Bill found that the
flange was held to the transmission with a big nut that needed two special
tools to tighten it securely. Well,
guess what we didn’t have. In addition,
without the flange in place all the oil had drained out of the
transmission. Great. Bill called the Yanmar dealer in Nassau. A mechanic named Brad said to smear blue Loctite
(a special nut glue that we luckily did have) on the threads then tighten the
nut as well as we could. Bill did, then he
refilled the transmission. During the
hours he worked, other boats came into the harbor and anchored around us. We tested the transmission in reverse by
pulling on the anchor line with the reversing engine. It
worked. We were scared to try
forward. The other anchored boats were
too close.
We could not stay in Morgan’s Bluff. The wind was forecast to change to north in a
few days, and the harbor, open to the north, would not be safe. Besides, there was no one in Morgan’s Bluff to
work on our problem. So, we slept. In the morning we raised the anchor and tried
to motor out of the harbor. We had no
forward. We re-anchored and thought
about it. We could not stay; we had to
leave. Our best option was to sail to
New Providence Island. The harbor at
Nassau on the north side of the island would be too crowded, unfamiliar, and
current ridden for us to safely enter, so Palm Cay Marina on the southeast
corner where we fixed our fuel tank last year would be our best place to go. Bill raised our sails, I steered the boat, we
threaded our way around the other anchored boats, and we left Morgan’s Bluff
behind.
The wind outside the harbor was light and coming in the
exact direction that we wanted to go. To
sail into the wind, we had to tack. We
sailed first to the left of the wind, then we turned and sailed to the right of
the wind. It meant that the 30 mile
straight line trip would be a 50 mile zigzag trip, and with the light wind it
would be 3 in the morning before we would be in water shallow enough to anchor
and sleep. Oh well, we would do what we
needed to do. From time to time we
started the engine and tried to motor.
For whatever reason, by late afternoon our transmission re-learned how
to do forward. We dropped the sails and
motored the rest of the way to the southwest corner of New Providence where we
anchored in the dark.
In the morning we tried the motor, but the transmission had
once again forgotten forward. So, it was
sailing time again. We had rain, rocks,
and coral heads to contend with as we first tacked then later sailed as close to
the wind as we could to the Palm Cay Marina entrance channel. We lowered the sails, turned on the engine in
case we needed reverse, and let the wind push us into the marina. Inside the marina we had to make a left turn between
two docks then a right turn into our slip.
With the help of a skilled dock hand, we managed to get the boat tied in
the slip without hitting another boat, without either of us getting hurt,
and (believe it or not) without any angry words between us. Whew.
A few salty sailors will say all this maneuvering under sail
was a piece of cake. I very strongly
disagree. I hope and pray I never have
to do any of it again!
Bill called Brad on Monday morning to ask him to come and
look at our transmission. Brad and another
mechanic, Martin, could not come until Tuesday, but they were here by 9:30am
and went straight to work. They had the
transmission out of the boat by noon. We
decided to order a new transmission from Yanmar in the states. Unfortunately, Brad discovered that the
transmission was no longer available. He
came back Wednesday morning, got the old one, and took it to the shop to see
about repairing it. Thursday, Brad
called and said the needed parts for the transmission were available in
Georgia. We agreed to expedited shipping
--- Adairsville in Georgia to St Pete in Florida then on to Nassau. We gave him copies of our USCG vessel
documentation and our Bahamas cruising permit in hopes of avoiding import
duties. We’ll see. In the meantime, we wait.
Today, we have been in this marina for two weeks. It is a very nice place. It is safe, the restaurant and the café both
have good food, there are showers, and a laundry. The grounds are perfectly maintained, and the
folks here are friendly. The weather has
been beautiful, some days windy, some days not, and it is warm. Bill is doing projects on the boat. I am getting lots of knitting accomplished,
and I am reading through my Kindle library.
I doubt I will run out of yarn, and I can order more Kindle books
anywhere.
Hopefully, we will get the transmission repaired, and we
will soon be out of here and beach walking.
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